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Bob in ND
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Posted: 20 July 2007 at 11:10pm | IP Logged Quote Bob in ND

We, my wife and I, returned from our trip from North Dakota to Alaska and back last week.  Here's a brief report.

The plan was to meet my wife at the airport in Anchorage where she would join me for our meandering 2-weeks trip home.   I  planned to make the solo northward ride in 3 days to save time.   I figured I might as well make it a SS3000 ride just for  fun.

I abandoned the SS3000 idea after 2 days on the road because I was just too fatigued to continue a suitable pace after the long stretches of muddy and rough roads along the Cassiar Highway.  With more cold and wet weather in the forecast, it just didn't look to be much fun to have to force the pace.

The third day northward wasn't much better as the weather remained lousy and I saw the worst streches of the Alaska Highway...basically from Kluane Lake to the Alaska border.  As with the Cassiar, the gravel portions of the road ranged from very wet to muddy. Most of these areas were negotiated at 25-30 mph.  The paved frost heaved areas weren't much better as I had to keep my speeds greatly reduced to keep the trailer in one piece.

All told, I estimate that I'd had about 500 miles of very poor roadway up to that point.  In retrospect, including the Cassiar in my plans for a SS3000 was a mistake.    

What a relief it was to finally cross in Alaska and find consistently decent roads again!  Another great relief was that the price of gas dropped by about $2.00 per gallon.

I made the 3100 miles to Wasilla, AK in 77 hours, only 5 hours behind schedule, but I did not regret calling off the SS3000. 

It was raining when my wife got off the plane and it would continue to rain intermittently for the next several days in Alaska.  Yes, we were damn sick and tired of it all.  With temps rarely higher than the low 50's, my wife was forced to use the electric vest on numerous occasions.   We'd usually put on our rain pants before we left the motel and then we'd leve them on all day.  We bought a lot of postcards so we could see what we were missing along the way.

We did thoroughly enjoy the stops along the way, regardless of how crappy the weather was.  Wasilla, Seward, Homer and Palmer were all very enjoyable for us.  As for Anchorage...it's just another city with an airport.

We trudged past Denali in the coldest and wettest weather yet but there was a light up ahead as the skies cleared as we approached Fairbanks and we found the sun and 80 degrees.   Ahhhh!!!!

We had clear skies for a few hours that evening and until noon the next day when we ran into more of the same old cold and wet.  The crap continued for 2 more days until we reached Whitehorse.

At Whitehorse that evening, my wife said she would walk back to ND if she could.  That was encouraging.    The frost heaves and muddy gravel roads were just too much stress for her.   I promised her that better roads and weather lay just ahead as I crossed my fingers.  

The next day was, thankfully, a wonderful day with a spectacular ride from Whitehorse to Skagway in sunny and warmer conditions.  The senery along this route rates among the best I've ever seen.  What a wonderful day it was....almost enough make us forget about the previous week's dreariness. 

The break in the weather was shortlived, however, and we had to endure more of the same old crap when we left Skagway as we were making our push towards home. 

We ended up in Watson Lake, a place I cannot recommend for anything other than a quick visit to the Signpost Forest and perhaps a tank of gas to get the hell out of there.  Do not stay in a motel there and for God's sake, don't eat a meal there. 

We finally started to find consistently decent weather east of Watson Lake.  Along with the better weather came better attitudes and some grand scenery as we crossed the Rockies and headed for the Icefields Parkway.

The Icefields Parkway is simply awesome!  We spent a night at the Saskatchewan River Crossing and thoroughly enjoyed it. 

We made the mistake of going into Banff, where commercialism and over-crowding have run amok.  We also had to endure the crowded 80 mph freeway out of Banff.  After 7000 miles of light traffic and traveling at our own pace, Canada #1 between Banff and Calgary was quite a shock.

We skirted Waterton and Glacier National Parks as we made our way into Montana.  More beautiful scenery!

The last leg of the ride was flat, hot and windy, just like eastern MT usually is and just like it usually is at home in ND as well.  Home sweet home!

All told, we rode nearly 8000 miles in 16 days. 

This trip is by far the longest motorcycle trip my wife has ever taken.  I figured she would probably never ride again after the things we endured but it didn't take more than a day off the bike when she was asking where we were going next.  I think she's hooked!

I can't give this trip an "A" grade as there are some legitimate issues here.  The primary negatives being the poor weather (which, according to the locals, was quite "normal"), some bad roads and the cost of fuel, food and lodging in Canada, where most of the mileage and time is spent.    In reality, however, the bad roads are a small percentage of the overall mileage and if they're taken at a sensible pace, they will usually be no problem.   Another reality is that it's a  long, long ways to get to Alaska and there are some long stretrches where there just isn't much to see or do.  One motorcycle traveler told me, "we can't wait to get off of this highway".

Normally, all those negatives would cause me to grade a trip like that a "C" or even a "D" but when you realize that the awesome sights along this route don't occur very often on this planet, it tends to raise the grade dramatically.  The vast majority of the Alaska Highway is in excellent condition and much better than I expected....sometimes, too good as most of the road has been modernized with wider shoulders and cut-back right-of-ways.  Truthfully, I enjoyed riding the few remaining older sections more.  The Icefields Parkway was, essentially, a trip saver for us. 

I'll be charitable and give it a "B".    

           


Edited by Bob in ND on 20 July 2007 at 11:34pm


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Lowrider
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Posted: 21 July 2007 at 8:54am | IP Logged Quote Lowrider

 

Bob, congratulations on completing a tough trip.  Despite the bad weather and roads, you have to look at the trip on the bright side.  You rode though some of the most beautiful scenery in the world and most of all you and your wife had an adventure.  Reminiscent of the journey made by our pioneers, your trip was also a FIRST for you except others had journeyed that way before you. It is in effect your version of the modern day pioneer trip. <vbg>

This trip will provide you amble stories to relate to your friends and relatives for years to come.  It's memories whether good or bad will be a source of conversation for all your future fireside chats.

Lowrider

 

 

 

 

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Posted: 22 July 2007 at 3:51am | IP Logged Quote ibafran

congrats on a successful trip. you must be married to one of those so called, "helluva woman!' persons.  i hope that we might be honored with a post from her ellucidating her perspective of the adventure?

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Mike F
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Posted: 22 July 2007 at 7:46am | IP Logged Quote Mike F

Congratulations, Bob, and thank you for the report! You completed a tough trip and fulfilled the first rule of motorcycling; you make it home to ride another day.

+1 to your wife! Mine draws the line at 500 miles a day and there'd better be a motel in sight at that point.



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Posted: 23 July 2007 at 2:44pm | IP Logged Quote TheRoss

Thanks for the report! If you post your pictures somewhere, please let us know where.

Glad you're back home in one piece!



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